As could be expected from a former child star, justin bieber clothes has experienced many a fashion transformation through the years. He’s done quiffed hair as well as a thick gold rapper’s chain. He’s posed looking buff in Calvin Klein pants. He’s experimented using a floppy fringe along with a suit. But while some of his efforts to toughen up have already been met with derision, the most up-to-date element of the Biebvolution is definitely bang about the fashion money. There have been ripped jeans. There were oversized hoodies, and oversized Nirvana T-shirts with all the sleeves hacked off. Crucially, we have seen plenty of layering – and a lot of raw edges.
Not every person gets it (“Justin Bieber wears bizarre frayed denim top,” was the Mirror’s reaction to his Marques’Almeida moment with the Radio 1 Teen awards earlier this month) although the latest incarnation of Bieber ties into a mood that may be sweeping through menswear – and could be arriving within your wardrobe soon.
In a nutshell: scruffiness is hot. Glitzy is out. Deliberately undone and messy is. Think a Wolfgang Tillmans portrait meets 1990s grunge with a tracksuit top along with a pierced ear thrown in for good measure. You can dub it a hot mess males, but the one thing you might never think of it is hipster – manicured beards must be ditched for haphazard facial hair immediately.
Undoubtedly, Marques’Almeida, the label justin bieber hoodie wore towards the teen awards, is integral towards the rise in demand for denim and also jeans which can be hacked off and left raw. Basically, if it’s the type of look which makes parents eyeroll and say: “You purchased that? Do want me to place proper hems on those?”, that has legs. Elsewhere around the catwalk, for his spring/summer 2016 menswear show, Raf Simons sent out herringbone trousers that was roughly stop at the anklebone, sat above some Stan Smiths. His shrunken tank knits had a sort of moth-eaten, make-do-and-mend thing happening; in close proximity, the holes within these knits are layered over a contrast fabric layer, and, actually, are far nicer than I’ve made them sound.
Justin Bieber’s winter 2015 i-D magazine cover.
This new mood – a kind of anti-luxury luxury – is there in all of the glossy style magazines, too, although glossy is definitely the wrong word. Bieber’s recent cover shoot for i-D magazine is a good reference point. It sees the pop star stripped back – bleached hair, a smattering of stubble, tattoos. Shot by Alasdair McLellan, just about the most in-demand photographers in vogue, these pictures have a typical masculine rawness. Inside a short video to accompany this shoot, you can also see acne on his forehead. Imagine. Meanwhile, Tillmans has shot typically lo-fi stories to the latest Arena Homme including one called How Fragile could this be Man?, even though the Russian designer and photographer Gosha Rubchinskiy has photographed ballet dancer Sergei Polunin for Man About Town. The second sees the shaven-headed ballet dancer wearing retro sportswear with eye makeup and a couple of days amount of facial hair.
Haute scruff had also been around one of the more talked-about moments from the spring/summer 2016 season: the Vetements show, which had been located in a Chinese restaurant variously identified as “tacky” (Dazed & Confused), “cheap and cheerful” (Vogue Runway) and “kitschy” (Business of Fashion) and featured clothes that have been all deconstructed awkwardness and models who looked like that they had just presented of bed. The majority of them weren’t actually models: Rubchinskiy appeared, wearing a DHL T-shirt (yes, as with the parcel delivery service); including the show stylist, Lotta Volkova, took a switch on the catwalk, closing proceedings in thigh-high boots along with a raw-edged denim miniskirt. The Vetements influence in vogue is just set to continue: once the show, among Paris’s most historic fashion houses, Balenciaga, announced that its lead designer, Demna Gvasalia, would be to become its new creative director.
Rubchinskiy is another from the buzziest names in menswear; since 2012 his label has been backed by Comme des Garçons. His clothes feel like a nerdy take on Soviet sportswear – think a shellsuit top or 1980s patterned jumper. Snazzy, yet not.
In reality, if everything else fails, the true secret for this look is really a vintage-style tracksuit top. Gosha or AMI (next season) for guys. Chloe (next season) or Bottega Veneta resort for girls (see British Vogue’s December issue, through which several tracktops are featured in the “new downtown silhouette”). Basically, it’s all a little Damon Albarn circa 1996. How come this humble zip-up summarize this new anti-luxury luxury? Firstly, since it ticks the 1990s box – as well as the dexqpkyy16 is becoming the decade du jour. Secondly, it’s the alternative of all justin bieber clothing which has been the headline news in menswear over the past few years. And then finally, it’s simple to chuck on, doesn’t seem like you’ve made an effort but suggests you know what’s occurring. Which feels scruffy and modern indeed.
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